Sewing and trimming machine.



J. HAYES, Jn. & J. BERGER, JR. SEWING AND Tnmmms MACHINE APPLICATION FILED HA3. 5, I911? 902,532. Patented Oct.27,1908.'

3 SHEBTS-SHEET 1.

J. EAYES, J11. & J. BERGER, Jn.

SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

AEPLlG-ATIOH FILED MAX, 5, 1904.

Patented 0ct.27,1908.

a snnn'rs-snzm" 2.

jrwnlou J. HAYES, h. an I. BERGER, h.

snwme mm mmmme MACHINE.

APPLIGATION TILED HA3. 5, 1904.

Patented Oct. 27, 1968;

8 SHBBTS-BHEET 3.

UNITED srAtras rsntr orrica.

-JOHN HATES, JR., OF AMSTERDAM, AND JOSEPH BERGER, .llL, OF UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGN- ORS TO UNION SPECIAL SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPO- RATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING AND TRILDHNG MACHINE.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JOHN HAYES, J r..

and Josern BERGER. J12. citizens of the United States, residing, respectively, at

.Amsterdam, in the county of Montgomery,

and lT-tica, Oneida county, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing and Trimming Machines, of which thefollowing is a description, reference being bad to the M2601- panying drawing and to the letters and tigures of reference marked thereon.

Our invention relates to sewing machines,

and especially to a sewing machine for use in the manufacture of underwear, for carrying out the operation of necking undershirts or finishing the tails of undershirts.

The object of the invention, primarily, is to provide a novel arrangement of trimming 2 mechanism, combined with a twin needle machine, whereby in one operation. two layers of fabric may be fed to the machine. a stationary cutting member on the cloth plate may penetrate between the layers. and a movable member cooperating therewith, may work from below and sever the edge of the lower layer. the stitch-forming mechanismuniting the two layers, and at. the same time. the under thread carrying looper will lay its thread across the cut edge of the lower fabric and bind its raw edge.

-So far as the details of the trimming mechanism itself are concerned, they may be applicable to other types of machines. but

the invention as a whole is especially useful at the pre ent time in the necking of undershirts. where the fabric. is doubled and fed to the machine. the point of the stationary cutting member passing into the bend of the 0 goods. the lower layer being severed and the two layers being united and the raw edge covered by the looper thread of the stitch forming mechanism. It will be understood.

however, that the invention may be applied to other uses.

, The invention consists in the matters hereinafter described and referred to in the appended claims.

The nvention is illustrated in the accompanyingdrawings, in which-- Figure 1 is a front elevation of a sewing inachine embodying the invention: Fig. 2 is a. perspective view of the cloth plate. feed dog, and trimming device, showing the fab- Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed. March 5, 1904 Serial No. 196,772.

Patented Oct. 27, 1908.

ric partly broken away; Fig. 3 is a similar view of the throat plate, illustrating also the two needles of the st itch-forming mechanism; Fig. 4: is a sectional side view of a portion of a sewing machine embodying our invention; Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the feed dog with the cutting member attached thereto; Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the feed dog and movable cutter: FigQG is a similar view. showing the adjustment of the movable blade; and Fig. 7 is a view of the work done on the machine. Fig. 8 is a plan view of the throat plate, feed dog and cutter, showing the relations of the various elements.

In these drawings, the machine as a whole is of the well known l nion Special twin needle type of machine. and embodies as its stitch-forming mechanism two needles a, n, and an under tln'ead-earrying looper Z, the thread of the latter concatenating with the loops of needle thread on the under side of the cloth plate, and carrying its thread back and forth across the line of feed.

A represents the throat plate. which is of usual construction for a machine of this character. except that its forward portion is slotted as at (I. to receive the shank I of the upper or stationary cutter C. which is secured to the throat plate by the screw 13. At its opposite end the cutter U is slotted at (1, to fit over a projection a" on the throat plate. It has a forwardly projecting sharp point s. against which the layers of fabric are pressed and which penetrates between the two. as shown in Fig. 2. The notched portion 1-. acts a guide for the lower layer of fabric. and as a partial support for it in the cutting operation of the lower knife. again t the under side c of the upper member. The vertical wall of the. upper member acts after the cutting to separate the trimmed froin the untriri'nned portion of the lower layer offabric, and the upper member as a whole acts as a. separator between the layers ot fabric. The lower cutting blade K is attached to and. moves with, the feed dog. being attached thereto, as

shown in Fig. 6. by the screw f,'but preferably is adjustable vertically. as shown in Fig. Gfiffor the purpose'of taking up wear due to the dulling and consequent re-sharpeningof the tool.

In Figs. 7 and 8, and 2, the operationof the machine as to the work done thereon, is illustrated.

In the operation of necking of undershirt, the, doubled fabric F, G, is placed in the machine, with the point a of the upper cutter penetrating the fold, as the goods are. drawn along by the feed, the lowt r fabric to the right is severed, the upper layer passes over the upper blade, and the parts then reach the stit h-forming mechaninu. when two rows of, Sllltlll: are passed through the fabrics. one some (lislflllt'i? within the raw edge of the severed fabric. and the other just outside. or at the edge. the iooper thread vwearing the needle thread and lying across the raw edge of the severed fabric.

Having thus. described our what we claim a? new. and deal: by Letters Patent. is:-

1. In a sewing machine. and iz. combina tion wtih the stitehing met-lamina and feed (10;: thereof. a knife fixed in and lorated above the throat plate or the marhine in advance of the Qtitrhing merhaniqu. and eomprising a n'n-mber projerting horizoptallr over the plane of the (lutll plate. ubatantially in the line of feed. and a movable knife carried by said feed dog and coat-tin; with aid fixed knife: substantially as do scribed. v

2. In a sewing machine and in rombination with the atitrhiu'; nn't'hanim: thereof. a fixed Putter. ('ompri-dng a member projrrtin;' forward over the plan of the throat plate. a feed d L'. and a movable matter tl])- portwl b said feed dog: and rou -ting with said fix-ad rutt -r.

I}. in a 'ewin; marhimand in r znbination with the din-hing un' haniwn thereof. a liXed entIl-r r-olnprhing' a m mber projm-tme: forward on-r the plantot"|he throat plat :t l t'l'tl dug a pin or 'H-w projertin; ther from. and a m vabl t'ltllt'l' (.llllt' l hr said pin or wreu'.

4. In a sewing nm'hinc. and in "umbination with the o\'t-r titrl|in -j nn-eliani-an thereof. a trinnnin; dmhw ('4 upper \talionary e. to secure nnpridng an l1('l']) l l layera of fabri and a lower member m-iipvrating therewith in on-1' llw lower layer of l'abrir. -ai-l trimming dmi -v being arrang d in adramot' the -tit h forming" met-lamina and the tationary memb-r e my nb4ant|ally n: llllt with one m mof the 0\'('l' ltl"lllll wh r by only and a lower lnrlnln l' t-o ipt-riitiug therewith invention.

member lHH'lllQ' ittorward end adapted to t'lll betw n i'-"o Hill of said g to FiCVtfl the lower layer of fabric, said trimmint device being arranged in advanr-e of the stitch formimg mechanism. and the said stationary member being in the line of feed and in front of and in line with one of the needle.

6. in a sewing machine and in combination with the stitching mechanism thereof, a throat plate having a pair of opening: for the needles; and cutting met-haniam comprising a knife t'letachably supported bysaid hroat plate and being located substantially in front of and in line with one of -aid needle opeuin' in the line of feed.

T. In a sewin; mm-hintuthe romhination of an over-stitching merhanism. m ansjor feeding a plurality of thiekueases of material, a rntzing Illtt'lltllllnlll ineluding an upper tationary member adapted to penetrate between two layers of fabric, and a movable t-otiperating lower member earried by the feeding merhanism and adjustable thereon. to ater the lower layer of fabric. the said atitrhing' werhanism being lorated behind the ruttin; nn-t-hanism and arranged to sew ne of the ut edges to the uni-at fabrie by entering the rut edge, said cutting neehanin? being arranged in the line of feed and rulmtantialli' in line with the edge of the over stilt-h substantially as (leseribed.

R. in a sewing machine, the combination with atitrh-t'ormiug mechanism includim, a plurality of needles arranged to paxs par allel rows of loops through the fabric to he Nan-d and a thread rarr \'in derive fill ll) Erraiing with the needles to make a vross titrh. of a trimming merhanism including an Hpprl .-tationar y m mb r eeured to the thr at-plateand extending above the same and adapted to enter between two superp-m-d layers of fabric to he sewed, and a lower movable member t-oiiperating therewith to sever be lower fabric, the said .dil 'llilljj nw-r-hanism 'bt-ing loeated behind the \rimmiz; mm-haniam and arranged to r-t\\' one of the rut edges to th" unrut. fabrio by t-n'iilng' the (ill edge, \aid (-nttingmeehani an lin; ;Ul:lll "ttl in the line of feed and -e:l:\':inli;|ll in line with the-edge f the on r at ite'h ub tantia|ly 1l.\tll'!-i'lll)ttl.

in a |\\'lll;;' nzarhiue. the vombination with -\tilrh-lormiiu: nu-rhaniam including a plurality of needles arranged to pass paralh-l runs of ltmtm' through the l'abrit'v to be -I\\('ll and a thread varlyilifj tll\'l((- rm'ipending with the nerdleato make a rrosa 1itvh. of a trimmin; lnu-hauia'm invludin; an upp r -!.-itionar member secured to the throat-plauand extending above the same. inning a -harp point projerting toward the ir n! of thinnu-hine and adapted to enter between l\\=- .np rposvd l:| \'l'l's of l'abriv to lasewed. nml tl lower movable nn-mbel' nopt-railing therewith lUh'lYt'l' the lower fabric, the -aid Mitt-bin niw'hanism lNllhL' lorah-d enema- Lime.

behind the trimming mechanism and arranged to sew one. of the cut edges to the uncut fabric by (-overing the cut edge, said cutting meehanism heing arranged in the, 5 line of feed and substantially in line with the edge of the over stitch substantially as tleseriheil.

W. In a sewing maehine, the eomhination with stiteh-t'orming lnei'llnnisin including a 10 plurality of needles arranged to pass parallel rows of loops through the i'ahrie to be aeweil and a ihreml rarr -'ing ileviee r'oiiperatingr with the llCttlltS tomake a ([055 stilt-h. of a trimming meelianinn im-halin; 5 an upper stationary member filtlllttl to the throat-plate anal extending ahove the same and atlapteil to enter hetween two superpast-(l layers of fahrie to he sewetl, :nnl a lower movahle llttllilull' roiiperating th- :e- 21; with to sever the lower lahrie. the said aim-hing mi-rhanisni heing loeateil lttllllHl the trimming :nerhanism anil arranged to sew one of the rut edges in the uncut tahrie hr rovering the rut edge, aml means for atljnating the lower ineinher, .\;\l(l cutting: mech- :tHlri.n heing arrange! in the line of feed andsuhstantiall) in lin with the edge of the m er s? llt'lt suhst ant Hlll as .ilesevilietl.

It. in a sewing maelnne having; a throat plate, cutting mechanism ineludin a knife detaehably supported at one 6H5 -on the throat plate, and at its opposite and provided with a recess engaging a rojectiou' on the throat plate; substantial) as dest'l'ilfljtl. V

12. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, provided with a recess at its forward portion. and a projeeti-. n in rear thereof, and a knife resting in said forwardrecess, and at its opposite end having a reeessengaging said projeetion: substantially as described.

13. trimming mechanism ineluding uper and lower knives, the former having a i'ahriepenetrating point and having a guiding slot, the walls of which serve as a guiile for the lower layer of fabric and as a partial support for it in the cutting 0peration of the lower knife against the underside of the upper niemher; substantially as de- StlllR-tl. i

In testimony whereof we athx our signatures. in presence of two witnesses.

JR. i JOB. BERGER, JR.

'itnesseaz W. 1i. Banana, Ilnxnr 5011mm 

